Palermo and the north coast

Mamma mia! I heard that there were a lot of people in Palermo, and this was the only place in Sicily that I was maybe a little intimidated going to, but I’m not sure why. Maybe because of all the things you here about the Mafia here gave me a less than favorable impression in my mind, I don’t know. Anyway, like I said before, I clearly arrived during the rush hour. This was absolutely the most insane traffic I have ever seen anywhere. It was awesome! There were cars, busses, scooters, motorcycles and people going every which direction, everywhere. The streets were just jammed with traffic and people going anyplace there was room to go. It was all I could do to squeeze my bike between cars in an attempt to make forward progress, not to mention I had no idea where I was going. It’s nice that all the cities and towns have signs clearly (usually) marking the way to the city center where most things are located. It’s a white sign with a little black and white bullseye and the word “centro” and it’s fairly easy to spot. This helps when you are lost and dodging Fiats and Vespas coming at you from all sides. I eventually found a hotel right across the street from the Teatro Massimo, the famous theater. This one actually looked like a big theater, unlike the one in Milan, and there was even another one like it not far away. The people here must really like the opera. After finding a safe looking sidewalk to park the bike I got cleaned up and went for dinner. I ended up finding a place that made a good Kebab Panino. It’s Turkish or middle eastern, what would also be called a Gyro at home I think. They’re fairly common in Italy and really good. It turns out that my hotel was actually in a good location. There were two streets right outside the door that featured small restaurants and cafes and clubs. One of the streets was full of young people and there were a couple of places that had bands playing. I kinda wanted to do something, but I was starting to drag a bit and decided to just walk around and then get some sleep. This would have been a good place to have my mate Tom around with me to get me to go out, maybe next time. The next day I decided to try and mail those t-shirts at the post office again. I waited in line for a few minutes then placed the package wrapped and ready to go on the counter. The guy took it and said “11 euro”, then I stood there waiting for him to explain what I had to do to get it sent. He repeated “undici euro”, then I realized that was it. I gave him the money and I was done, just like that. I was in shock after the run around I got in the post office in Siracusa, but I guess that’s how it goes here sometimes. Amazing. After that it was time to go, but I wanted to capture some of the driving madness on film before I left, so I taped my camera to the handlebar and hit the streets trying to find my way back out of the city. Unfortunately the traffic had subsided since last night and it was relatively quiet, but I still got some interesting footage I think. I really would have liked staying another day or two there, as there is a lot of history and culture in Palermo, but I wanted to try and stay on schedule since I was only a little more than half way through my trip at this point. And by the way, Palermo is also where the other part of my family is from, but nobody seems to know too much about their story. At least I can say I have been to all these places now, and that feels good. I will definitely have to make a small trip here another time and take it all in. Tom, take note.

After my escape from Palermo I hit the Autostrada just a short distance across the northern coastline to Cefalu. This was another of those small cities that looks absolutely amazing from a distance, with the colors or the stone buildings and tile rooves all blending together and covering the landscape until it drops into the sea. I rode into the center and stopped just for a short time to check out the main church and the seaside. I could tell this was another popular tourist spot, but it was still quiet at the time and very beautiful. I took a short walk by a small beach and saw someone trying to back their car out of a space in the parking lot, but he was blocked in by another small car that had parked crooked next to him. So after a couple attempts at squeezing out, a couple guys just simply lifted and moved the little car out of the way. Somehow I knew I would see that happen someday, bravo.

I left Cefalu and enjoyed my second afternoon of really good riding under the sun. The northern coast is maybe prettier than the southern side, and I was actually riding along the water now too. I got behind a small car, which is always a surefire way to ruin a good twisty road for me because cars are always slow and get in the way, but not this time. Like I said before, some of these Italians can really drive, and this guy was moving. I followed him for several miles just trying to keep up, which I did, but I can only do so much on a rented bike with loaded sadlebags and lousy tires that never really seemed to have much grip, always slipping when I pushed it a bit. It was a lot of fun following him, and besides, I think if I had passed him he would have been all over my tail and maybe chased me off a cliff! Hmm, maybe a faster bike next time.

A little farther down the road after parting ways with Mario Andretti I passed a turn I wanted to make, and when I turned around I noticed one of the saddlebags hanging off the bike. I stopped to examine it and found that the mount had broke. I remember that side was a little shakey before and I think it must have been damaged when a previous renter dropped the bike. So I was forced to empty it’s contents and put the things into the other bag and load up my backpack. Fortunately I didn’t have much in the backpack so I was able to keep everything but my extra pair of shoes. I’d had them for a long time and they were on there way out anyway. They were good shoes and they served me well, may they rest in peace in that Sicilian dumpster. I managed to get the saddlebag to stay in place with a piece of metal from the tool kit and a lot of packing tape that I had left over from the package I mailed previously. I’m glad I noticed it before it fell off and tossed all my things down the road. What could have been a problem turned out to be no problem, and I was back on the road in no time.

I ended the day back in Messina, having made a complete loop, or giro, of Sicily. Messina definitely looked better in the sunshine. I got a room then had some dinner in a restaurant with a Flintstones theme. Yes, the Flintstones. The tables and chairs were actually fat carved wood items that you might see in Fred’s house, and the pizza was good too. The next day it was arrivederci Sicilia, I did it. Riding around this island was something I’ve been thinking about for a long time and I don’t know if it was quite what I imagined it would be, but what would be the point if it was? That’s why I’m doing these things, so I don’t have to imagine, I can live it and then remember it and feel good about what I’ve done. Then move on to the next thing…..